Varadero is Cub’s resort paradise. It is basically a peninsula lined on one side with a never-ending white sand beach. Unlike all my other destinations in the country this one is not drenched in history unless you call the constant construction of new resorts history. However I felt I needed to see this famous place for myself, so I made the most out of it by applying my usual tactic of infiltrating resorts for free stuff. You can read my full experience below. If you want to check out my entire Cuba itinerary, click here.

Friday 26th: Playa Infinita

Rough morning

I woke up wiping the drool of my chin and not particularly well rested. Why that is you can read at the end of my Santiago post. I tried to get some more sleep before arriving but there was too much noise and light in the bus. When we were finally approaching Varadero around 12:30 (only an hour and a half delay), I couldn’t wait to get off the bus. I walked straight passed the pushy taxi and casa offers and walked to the central park. Unfortunately, I had received no news about where Amber and Dare (my Dutch friends I had met on the bus to Trinidad) were staying, so I went exploring casas myself.

Spending Limit

First impression was that Varadero was freaking expensive. Casas did not go below 25 CUC, which was above my normal limit of 20 CUC, even if I asked and walked away several times. So, I went back to the most decent one I had seen for that price. Which was luckily also smack in the middle of Varadero town. I dropped all my stuff and prepared for a long walk down the beach. I ended up walking about 4 to 5 km down the infinite white sand beach of Varadero.

Beach Bum

Although beautiful, it was also rather monotonous and boring compared to the cosy bar speckled beaches I had been to before. First, I met a German/Cuban girl and her primo drinking whiskey on the beach. We started talking in a weird mixture of German, English and Spanish and I eventually got offered the last of their whiskey. I thanked them and wished them the best. When I passed a low-key all-in hotel a bit later, I decided to go in and take my chances.

Free Food

Sure enough, nobody stopped me till I got to the bar. I ordered a beer and for once being the good guy, I asked how much it was. The bartender looked surprised at my question and I realized I should have shut up. He told me one CUC but ended up giving me two for that and just smiled and shrugged. I went to drink them in one of the lounge chairs on the beach and it tasted like more. So, I went back and ordered two more.

Then I also noticed they were serving food on a buffet. I casually walked over, grabbed a plate and served myself some chips, croquettes and a hamburger. I ate it quietly at a table on the porch before grabbing my remaining beer and walking out of there. Some kms later I started to get hot, so I claimed a lounge chair at the end of another resort’s area and went for a dip. I dried up a bit while reading and moved on.

Sunset

Tired and hot I decided to call it quits and went straight through yet another resort finding my way back to the main road. As usual nobody asked any questions about the fact I had no bracelet and absolutely no right to be there. I got a cab back to the central park to take a shower in my casa. After the shower I planned my sunset adventure and read in the Lonely Planet guide that the Xanadu villa was a good place to go. Unfortunately, it cost me 10 CUC there and back and the view was most definitely not worth it. Mistakes were made but in the end I made some nice pictures anyway.

Sabor Cubano

I asked the driver to drop me off at the restaurant Hayoung (someone I had met in Santiago) had recommended called ‘Sabor Cubano‘. I got the classic ropa vieja and it was absolutely delicious. You could get Fresh piña juice as much as you wanted plus the portions were huge for 4 CUC. A real bargain! Afterwards I chilled in the casa for a while and started walking towards the club my taxi driver had recommended.

Beatles Bar

It was still early though so when I walked past the Beatles bar I went in for a drink. The cover band was playing entertaining rock covers loudly and rather badly. However, it was a welcome variation on the rumba, salsa and reggaeton-saturated days before. I ended up having 3 Bucaneros when my long bus night started to catch up with me. In the end I called it a night at half past midnight and slept like corpse.

Saturday 27th: Varadero Beach and Ride

Belgian Breakfast Lady

I woke up at 8 wondering why the hell I had put the alarm at that hour. Hence I simply moved it to 9 and went back to sleep. I had a nice healthy breakfast at the casa and after packing most of my stuff in my backpack already I headed for the beach. During breakfast a nice old Belgian lady told me her life story and that of her kids. I didn’t mind and indulged her. When I got to the white infinite Varadero beach, I installed myself in the shade of a tree and people-watched for a while before reading a bit in my book. I started getting hot, so I left my towels and sandals behind but took my backpack with my phone closer to the water and went for a dip.

Tight Security

While swimming I saw a security guy walking up to my spot. He whistled and starting gesturing. I gestured back indicating that it was mine, but he called me over. When I walked out of the water and up to him, he told I could not leave my stuff unattended. I was not in the mood to ask him why I couldn’t leave a towel lying there so I just grabbed it, mumbled “Vale” and dropped it with my backpack before heading back in the wonderfully refreshing water.

Back to Habana

Cooled off, I went to dry in my same shady spot and read some more. Before I knew it, it was 12 already and time to check out of the casa. I walked back and took a quick shower to get the sand of a bit. Meanwhile Marlene (the owner) had arranged my collectivo from Varadero to Havana at one o’clock. It was apparently me and 3 Mexican girls. The drive along the ocean was really nice and after a quick Piña colada stop at a mirador we continued our way through Matanzas and on to la Habana.